2010-09-13 13:18:00WitchVera

0911 Tnunan Smangus 司馬庫斯

Smangus, Jianshia Atayal village with 28 families which is located at altitude 1,600 meters in Jianshi ShiangHsinchu County. It is famous for it’s ancient cypress treesbamboowater-falland mist in valley.

 

Before the giant trees were discovered in this area, Smangus village was completely cut off from outside of the world. There’s nothing to promote the village but only air, water-fall and falling leaves, whish is the reason it’s known as “darkness village” and now it’s “God’s village”.

 


Smangus village, took on 12 September 2010. 
 

One interesting history of development in this village, this area had not have electricity until 1979. The only road that lead to outside of the world was completed in 1995. Still, the houses that made of wood or bamboo are exist in Smangus village today, all besides the visitor center and café shop. A store that sell sodas, crackers, and souvenir is managed by an old womanmaybe two old women. It is a significant wooden house with 2nd floor, both spaces are non-smoking.

 

Since I spent several days on weekend in August to drive on the road in Hengshan and Jiashih of Hsinchu County, just reallized a little bit about the places that my father took me to…now, I take my kid to.

 


↑right way to drive to Smangus village, even it's Yufeng. Photo took on 11 September 2010.




P1020782 a.jpg Tienpu village and the church, photo took on 11 September 2010.


11 September, 2010 (SAT)

I drove on Province highway no. 3 to Nawan, Hengshan Shiang, Hsinchu Couty in the morning, only bikers rode in front of my vehicle. Another 2.5 hours-driving shall take me from Nawan to the God’s village – Smangus. Rarely to find any company when I passed a point call “Frog Stone”, and the road actually become small. When I got to the sentry that guarded by a policeman of Jianshi Shiang, one simple film had to be filled to get the permit (ID need to be attached). Then, the road is full of sharp curves, I’d better to drive carefully. There’s a fork on the road of Taigan village, I took the left one, which is only 16KM and one-hour driving to lead me to Smangus. (Well, there’s only one road in, and out.) On 4KM~6KM, that’s the hardest part that I could drive-by, the road is on re-constructed that day.

 

The entrance stand in front of my eyes, it’s 13:00. Smangus village is there, right there and true there. When the cloud fall with thundershower, it’s 14:30. Rain falls after I enter this village, appreciated the nature and nature beauty.

 

I sat on the wooden chair and sipped my hot cocoa at a corner of café shop. What a time.

 


↑Thundershower in Smangus village on 11 September 2010.


↑ Photos took in the café shop when the rain fall on 11 September 2010.

Then, I watched the film, a video how to produce “Once Upon a Time (泰雅千年) directed by Mr. Chen Wen-bin (陳文彬)”. I’m supposed it is the first film and the only one film to tell us how importance the Atayal to get together in one piece if they want to live in the world, somehow, quarrel and conflict may comes from inside of the Atayal every so often. (You can learn more about it on the film’s website.)

 


Visitors come from different cities and they enjoy the supper at the restaurant in Smangus village. Photo took on 11 September 2010.



↑ They joined the activity in the church and learn the Atayal language, then, they singing...

12 September, 2010 (Sun)

Coreopsis and daylilis blossom on September, thundershower may grow them and make them strong. And, the bashful dust cover on them when mist fall. Dewdrops sparkled in the morning sun. That’s the gift from nature that every visitors could take from this village. 

 

Some redident may get up on 3:30 in the morning and begin to walk to the giant trees, but I could ever never been, especially since I found the path way become as wide as my shoulders. The butterflies, the bugs and bamboo around me, encourage me to reach the water-fall and feel the moisture from the valley. Photos as underneath could tell.

 


 Dewdrops sparkled in the morning sun, photo took on 12 September 2010.




↓ One hour walking from Smangus village, the water-fall could help you relax. The air smell so good, just breath deeply.





↑ The image of blue sky and cloud is so colorful. 

10:00am, check-out and say good-bye to Tnunan Smangus, when the Atayal are staying in the church. Only one way out Smangus, through the entrance guarded by no one. 

 

Simple, fair and balance could ever lasting the story between……


↑The entrance guarded by no one, time to say good bye~~ And, see you next time.


↓ The Atayal hero stand there in Jianshi Shiang, which is a landmark could be find easily.
Photo took on 12 September 2010.




因著一次身入其中(尖石鄉)的彎曲小徑駕駛經驗,對向的騎士頷首示意,多麼驚訝的一瞬間!恍若三十年前存在的鄉間默契般,這已經多不復見的簡單禮貌,卻在尖石不期而遇。橫山鄉/尖石鄉的竹林與奇石、奇木,同樣吸引著我,生命中的堅韌在走訪山林時可以學到。於是研究地圖、上網找資料,並利用數個週末來附近駕駛練習,期望兒時的回憶能助我點滴。 

雷爸*JoMa*(砂子)楓葉武道琴俠Uncle..張若茵(Jo-Yin) ……等諸位常來造訪卻素昧平生的格友們,此文完成以各位的熱情與相伴。還有,我的二愣子老爸,以前他是這樣整天紅通通地, 皮膚黑到不行, 防曬油他有係數25~35, 只是那..罐子裡應該是裝了別的, 帽子+袖套以及遮陽傘可大囉, 只是那..女兒來檢查時才派上用場, ..種田的通訊小兵走了以後, 只留下"效忠領袖"及梅花小別針兩個給女兒。也許..世界另一頭他還是依然故我曬太陽!

 

交通方式:

關西交流道→118縣道至關西3號省道往橫山合興接120縣道東行至尖石右轉尖石大橋沿秀巒產業道路經那羅、田埔、秀巒秀巒檢查哨辦理入山證後直行(此路崎嶇狹窄,一般車輛難行,需行前準備或洽當地居民瞭解路況)→在泰岡部落前的叉路向左行駛(約16公里)即可抵達。

 

司馬庫斯

司馬庫斯歷史背景、語言文化、旅遊資訊等內容介紹。 ... 司馬庫斯交通車服務 ,讓您輕鬆前往司馬庫斯。 歡迎預訂座位。 2000- (c) 司馬庫斯部落發展協會 與我們聯絡 ...(http://www.smangus.org/ )

地址: 新竹縣尖石鄉玉峰村14鄰司馬庫斯2號   

電話: 03584 7688 or 0928 804 983 傳真: 03584 7689

時間: 上午9~下午6

部落格: www.wretch.cc/blog/watu

 

200411,部落共同經營正式邁入一個新的經營理念與制度,新的制度與舊制度最大的差異與突破在於,共同經營經濟實體轉型,將「土地(包含地上農作物)」納入到「集體共有制度」的資源範疇,同時在該年裡,建立了「部落公約」、「Tnunan的規範」。屬於泰雅的生命歷程仍將持續……

WitchVera 2016-01-04 20:27:59

颱風的風量 雨勢讓山區與人文不斷變化, 不方便是文化阻隔, 也可能是一種自然防衛! 謝謝Tony大哥的精彩圖文, web: http://www.tonyhuang39.com/tony0606/tony0606.html

小洋子 2012-08-09 21:47:51

嗯,所有膳食和住宿都安排好囉,而且還是一大群人去
好像要去露營遠足一樣,真開心,哈哈哈
對了,其中有位朋友帶我們,她是自己人專門在帶的響導
星期六一大清早就要出發囉~ㄎㄎㄎ

好興奮耶,原本沒安排好的事,忽然天降好事讓我好好玩樂,哈哈哈~~~~

版主回應
都一周過去了 我們可以看看這個遊記沒呢?? 2012-08-18 12:48:05
WitchVera 2011-05-05 17:08:39

前一陣子聽說尖石鄉會被一個水庫修築的計劃給遷村與淹沒, 若果如此我一定跳出來大聲反對, 水的需求可以有替代計畫, 被趕離開的居民與動物還有被淹沒的林相, 更應該有優先保護的計畫, 不能只留債而把自然資源消耗了給後代子孫!! 就當我是活夠了~~