2005-09-24 16:17:21法新社

一个新加坡人眼中的现代中国

一个新加坡人眼中的现代中国


● 蓝秉湖

By Lam Pin Foo

Modern China in the eyes of a Singaporean

I first visited China in 1982, not long after it embarked on its open-door policy. Since then, I have returned there regularly, the latest trip was this year.

I have travelled to many parts of China and witnessed its transformation from an austere Communist state into a vibrant economic powerhouse now aspiring to join the ranks of the developed world. Its meteoric rise in two decades is unprecedented in human history.

Over the years, I have formed contrasting impressions of this vast land then and now. Here are some of them.

In 1982, the majority of Chinese rode a bicycle, were dressed alike, cars were few and for official use, taxis were scarce and buses and trains were hopelessly overcrowded. Traffic was chaotic and road crossing was risky and not for the faint-hearted.

Most Chinese men smoked, spat in public and public toilets were revolting.

Some essential food items were rationed and locals must produce coupons to purchase their entitlements. Foreigners needed a special currency to pay for their spendings and luxury goods not available to citizens.

The educated Chinese were highly intelligent and displayed unconcealed pride in their country and leaders, especially the late Chaiman Mao and Zhou Enlai. The most glowing accolade was accorded Deng Xiaping, the architect of China’s economic miracle.

What about night life and entertainment? Television stations ended the day’s programmes at 7.30pm. Tourists could choose between the ubiquitous acrobatic shows or Beijing Opera. August visitors would attend ballet or classical music performances by leading Chinese artistes.

What is China like today?

The majority of Chinese seem apolitical and no longer hold their political leaders with awe as before. They would freely criticise government policies, official excesses and rampant corruption.

Having tasted economic success, they firmly believe that China would never again lapse into the old ways. They are convinced that it will gradually become more democratic once the rule of law and political freedom are firmly entrenched.

The pursuit of wealth is an all-consuming national passion, and everything else is subordinate to it. However, with the widening income disparity between the urbanites and peasants, there is a real danger that large-scale social unrest might ensue threatening the nation’s stability, as had happened in Chinese history.

China has a reservoir of talented people to sustain its economic development. They are continuously augmented by returned Chinese trained in overseas universities. They will play a decisive role in its future.

The entrepreneurs and professional elites now enjoy high income and prestige, but not scholars and civil servants who are poorly remunerated. A prominent professor lamented that his pay pales compared with his computer scientist daughter with only five years’working experience.

Numerous Chinese cities have the attributes and amenities of modern cities. Shanghai and Beijing will soon join the ranks of world-class metropolises. Even Urumqi in far-flung Xinjiang now looks like a mini Hong Kong.

Chinese cities are now generally clean, spitting in public is rare, toilets are now presentable and public transportation has improved. However, traffic chaos is still commonplace and queue-jumping continues.

Happily, China is very safe for tourists. I always enjoy re-visiting China, which has so much to offer visitors because of its history, culture, antiquities, varied scenery and sumptuous varieties of food at affordable costs.

Above all, for those who speak its language and appreciate its civilisation, there is no place like it.

The writer is a retired lawyer.

  我在1982年第一次到中国游玩,那时中国刚实行改革开放的政策。之后,我多次重游神州,最近的一次是在今年。

  我到过中国的许多地方,目睹它从一个共产经济转变成一个蓬勃发展、期待加入发达国家行列的经济强国。中国在过去20年的迅速崛起,在人类历史上是前所未有的。

  过去和现在的中国,给了我截然不同的感受。

  1982年,大多数中国人都骑着自行车,穿着也类似。马路上的车子不多,全是官方用车。德士也很少,巴士和火车则拥挤不堪。此外,交通非常混乱,对胆子小的人来说,过马路是件危险的事情。

  中国男人很多是烟客,随地吐痰是普遍的现象,公共厕所的卫生情况更是令人作呕。

  一些主要的粮食实行配给制,人民必须出示粮票才能买到。外国人在中国消费,或者购买中国人不能购买的奢侈品,必须使用外汇卷。

  受过教育的中国人智慧高,对国家和国家领导人,尤其是毛主席和周恩来,表现了毫不掩饰的自豪感。获得人民最高评价的,是中国经济奇迹的工程师邓小平。

  至于夜生活和娱乐消闲活动,电视台在晚上7点半便停止播放节目,游客可以选择观看到处都有的杂技表演或者京剧。水平较高的则可以观看由中国著名艺人呈现的芭蕾舞或者古典音乐表演。

  今天的中国又是怎么样的呢?

  大多数的中国人似乎对政治不感兴趣,对政治领导人也没有以往的敬畏。对于政府的政策、官员的浪费挥霍和贪污猖獗的现象,他们毫无保留的提出批评。

  中国在经济上所取得的成就,让人民深信中国再也不会回到以前的老样子。一旦法制和政治自由的观念逐渐牢固,中国将会变得越来越民主。

  中国人现在正狂热地追求财富,其他东西都是次要的。然而,因为城市和农村人口收入差距日益扩大,发生大规模社会动乱的危险是确实存在的,这将严重威胁国家的和平稳定。这样的动乱在中国历史上已有先例。

  中国有大量的人才可以确保国家经济取得持续的增长。这些人才加上所谓的海归派,将在中国未来的发展扮演决定性的角色。

  企业家和专业人士享有高薪和社会地位,学者和公务员却依然领取微薄的薪水。一位著名的学者感叹,同他担任电脑科学家但只有5年工作经验的女儿相比,他的薪水真的是微不足道。

  许多中国城市都具有现代化城市的特色和设施。上海和北京很快将晋升世界级大都会的行列。即使边远的新疆的乌鲁木齐,看起来也像是个“迷你香港”。

  中国城市现在一般上都很干净。随地吐痰的现象已经很少;厕所也比较卫生;公共交通系统也大有改善。不过,交通混乱和插队的情况依然普遍。

  对游客来说,中国是个非常安全的地方。每一次重游中国对我来说都是个愉快的经验。中国的历史、文化、古迹、怡人的风景和价格廉宜的各种美食,都是吸引游客的原因。

  更重要的是,对于会说华语和欣赏中华文化的游客,没有什么地方会比中国更具吸引力。