2015-04-13 19:32:36喜貓

十個讓臉部肌膚亮起來的方法 (Mukti臉書, 翻譯: 喜貓)







 

Don't sabotage your skincare success by engaging in any of these 10 no-no's:

1. for your skin's sake, stop smoking!

Apart from putting yourself on the road to becoming a cancer statistic, smoking is a surefire way to age your skin prematurely. Smoking constricts blood flow in the capillaries, which reduces the flow of moisture and nutrition to the cells and directly causes wrinkles and fine lines. And yes – wrinkles are a LOT worse in smokers than non-smokers. If that’s not enough of a deterrent, how’s this? Cigarettes contain 4000 chemicals that destroy collagen and elastin, the fibres that give your skin its strength and elasticity. Want to look 15 years older than you actually are? Go ahead and smoke. It will give you wrinkles, lines, crow’s feet, uneven skin tone and skin spots. Thanks, but no thanks.

為了皮膚好, 不要抽煙,

除了可能罹患重病, 抽煙會讓人早衰. 抽煙會限縮在微血管內的血流量, 降低水分與養份在細胞間的有效輸送, 直接造成皺紋, 與細紋. 而且, 抽煙者的皺紋比不抽煙者的皺紋來得深. 如果這還不夠, 香煙含4000種化學物質, 破壞能給予皮膚緊實性與彈性的膠原蛋白. 想要比現在老上十五歲嗎? 盡管抽. 有皺紋, 有細紋, 膚色不均都沒關係? 不了, 謝謝

 

2. dehydration disaster

The difference between dehydration and dryness is that dryness is a lack of oil ON the skin and dehydration is a lack of moisture IN the skin. Nicely hydrated skin is plump and soft like a baby’s bottom. Dehydrated skin feels dull and papery. What happens when you don’t drink enough water and become dehydrated? Not enough moisture is transmitted from the inside (dermal reserve) to the outside layers of your skin (epidermis), resulting in dehydrated – older looking – skin. Apart from ensuring you drink enough water, be aware of your environment and take steps to hydrate your skin more often if needed. Spending a lot of time in air-conditioned or heated rooms will evaporate the moisture from your skin, as will very hot or cold climates.

乾荒災難

皮膚缺水跟乾燥的差別, 乾燥是皮膚沒有油份的滋潤, 而缺水是皮膚裏沒有保濕因子. 水分充盈的肌膚會澎澎柔軟像嬰兒的屁屁. 缺水的肌膚看起來柴柴像紙一般. 當你喝水喝不多時, 變得缺水, 會發生什麼事? 沒有足夠的保濕因子從皮膚內部(真皮層)傳達到表面來(表皮層), 造成乾枯缺水- 看來老老的 - 皮膚. 除了確保你喝足夠的水份, 瞭解你的環境, 適度地常常保濕, 如果需要的話. 如果你常待在冷氣房或暖氣室, 水份會常蒸發掉.  

3. sun protection fail

Inadequate sun protection is right up there with smoking as a surefire way to age your skin prematurely. If you spend too much time in the sun without enough sun protection (sunscreen, hat, clothing, sunglasses) you may get more fine lines, wrinkles, sun spots, discolouration, textural changes and worse – skin cancer. Choose a nanoparticle-free sunscreen and apply it daily to your face after you cleanse, tone and moisturise and before you apply your makeup.

沒做防曬保養

不足的防曬跟抽煙一樣糟, 都會讓你的皮膚早衰. 如果你常待在太陽底下而沒做足防曬(擦防曬保養品, 戴帽子, 長袖衣服, 太陽眼鏡等), 你的臉上可能會爬上些細紋,皺紋, 曬斑, 色素沉澱, 皮膚變粗糙, 或...更糟- 皮膚癌.  選擇不含奈米分子的防曬保養品, 每天清潔, 調理後, 要上粧之前擦

 

4. you can leave your hat on

Sunscreen isn’t enough to protect your face from UV rays, especially if you’re going to be spending a lot of time in the sun. A broad-brimmed hat is essential, especially in Australia’s harsh climate. Besides – hats are sexy. Click here to see our post on 7 sexy hats that look hot while keeping the heat (and UV rays) off.

戴帽子

防曬保養不足以完全保護來自UVA,UVB的侵害, 特別是你有很長時間要待在太陽下時. 寬大帽沿的帽子是必需的, 特別是在澳洲這種嚴苛的氣候. 除此- 帽子很性感可愛. 可點進去參考有七頂蠻漂亮的帽子, 既能保護日曬, 又能裝點美麗

5. going ott with exfoliation

Exfoliating can brighten your skin as it increases skin cell turnover and stimulates the production of new cells, helping your skin look rejuvenated. But don't go over the top with exfoliation or you could do damage. If you exfoliate too often or use an exfoliant that’s too harsh, your skin could become red, irritated, tight, excessively dry, flaky or you may experience a burning or stinging sensation. Remember: use a gentle, natural exfoliant every 2nd-3rd day and avoid scrubbing the skin. Look out for exfoliators that are spherical so that they don't tear at the epidermis and gently massage in circular motion with your fingertips allowing the product to do the work.  

 

煥膚步驟不可少

去角質可磨亮你的皮膚, 增加細胞新陳代謝, 讓新細胞不斷長出來, 整個皮膚看來會很明亮. 適度去角質很好, 但不要過度. 如果太常去角質, 或使用顆粒太粗的, 皮膚會變得紅, 腫, 過度乾燥, 甚至有種刺痛灼熱感. 記住: 每兩三天, 用一次, 要使溫和天然的去角質霜, 不要用力磨擦.  選那種棵粒是圓形的, 不會過度磨擦皮膚表面, 使用時, 以畫圓方式按摩.

 

 

6. Not cleansing daily is a big no-no

As I wrote about in this post about correct cleansing, removing dirt, makeup, sweat, oil, bacteria and impurities is imperative for beautiful, glowing skin. Everyone should cleanse daily, but  it's even more important not to skip it if you live in a polluted city and wear makeup. A thorough cleansing ritual with a cleanser selected for your skin type is essential for men, women and teenagers.

不要每天洗臉是大忌

(註: 請自行參考, 有關洗臉不洗臉, 不同品牌, 不同皮膚科醫生都有不同說法)

洗臉能移除髒污, 彩粧, 汗水與油垢, 細菌, 等等, 對於美容保養是很重要的一步. 每個人每天都應該洗臉, 但是更重要更重要的不應該跳過這個步驟. 如果你剛好生活在空污的城市, 還需每天化粧. 一個完整的洗臉步驟(儀式), 選用適合你膚質的洗臉用品, 對於男生, 女生, 青春期的年輕人都是很重要的

 

 

7. good old-fashioned soap...NoT!

Soap may be old-fashioned, but it's not as pure and harmless as it sounds. It’s way too harsh on the skin as it’s very alkaline and drying. It strips the hydro-lipid film from the surface of the epidermis and leaves the horny layer exposed, unprotected and subject to moisture loss. Any cleanser that leaves your skin feeling ‘squeaky clean’ or taut is too dehydrating. That goes for foaming cleansers and acne products as well as not-so-good old-fashioned soap.  

古早香皂- 不~~要!!

(有關此, 也請自行參考; 有很多美容皂起家的品牌大概不同意)

香皂也許聽來很古老, 但它不像聽起來那麼純與無害. 用在臉上太傷皮膚, 因為它很鹼性, 容易讓皮膚很乾. 會奪走臉部表面的保濕脂質, 讓裏頭的角質層曝露出來, 處在沒有防護的狀態. 任何洗臉清潔用品讓你的臉部過度乾澀的都不是好的選項. 指的...可能是一些有大量泡沫, 專門為面皰設計的, 與不怎麼理想的古早洗面皂.

8. hitting acne with all guns blazing

It’s tempting to go ballistic with any product that promises to get rid of your acne when you're in the grip of a breakout. I truly sympathise, as it can be an embarrassing skin problem – especially adult acne. I recommend avoiding products that contain hydrogen peroxide, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, hexachlorophene and other harsh ingredients. These substances alter the keratinisation process and weaken the ability of the cells to bond together, as well as impeding the transfer of moisture to the epidermis. Think gentle, healing, soothing and calming ingredients, like organic aloe vera and chamomile.

消滅痘痘大作戰

當你的痘痘正在大爆發, 很難不想去買個號稱有效的抗痘系列. 我要強調, 痘痘是尷尬的皮膚問題, 特別是成人痘. 我推薦要避免含以下成份的產品, 含過氧化氫, A酸, 抗菌劑(台灣法規有劑量規定), 類固醇(台灣化粧品禁用)與其他刺激成份. 這些成份會反轉細胞新生過程, 弱化細胞的緊密性, 以及輸送水份養份的能力. 找一款溫和, 舒緩的產品, 特別是有機成份, 像蘆薈, 與甘菊

9. the deadly 3: alcohol, sugar, trans fats

Where diet is concerned, these are the big three enemies of your skin (not to mention your overall health). Alcohol is super-dehydrating, it deprives your skin of vital nutrients and can lead to skin problems like rosacea. Sugar or high-glycaemic foods that rapidly convert to sugar in the body are detrimental to your skin too, as they cause your insulin levels to spike, which leads to inflammation. Inflammation produces enzymes that break down collagen and elastin, resulting in sagging skin and wrinkles. Digested sugar permanently attaches to the collagen in your skin through a process called glycation, which increases the effects of ageing. Trans fatty acids, or trans fats, are formed when manufacturers of processed foods turn liquid oils into solid fats. There’s only one word to describe trans fats: evil. They offer no benefit to the body and cause much damage, least of all it’s effect on the skin. Trans fats are found in deep fried foods, commercial cakes and biscuits, pies and pastries. Eating trans fats can increase your bad (LDL) cholesterol and decrease your good (HDL) cholesterol, increase sebum production and lead to clogged pores and acne. Cut trans fats out of your diet but don't forget to keep eating good fats (omega-3s and omega-6s) and applying them to your skin via your skincare products.

三種元氣大傷的飲食成份: 酒精, 糖份, 與反式脂肪

吃進去的東西, 也關係到皮膚的美麗. 有三種對你皮膚不利的食物成份(更不要說對身體健康). 酒精是超級剝水的東西, 會把你皮膚重要養份剝奪, 還可能導致皮膚問題, 像酒槽鼻.  糖份食物吃下去後, 升糖指數高, 對於皮膚同樣有害, 它們會讓你的胰島素瞬間攀高, 透過糖化機轉, 導致體內發炎, 發炎會產生一種酵素, 打斷膠原蛋白與彈力蛋白, 造成皮膚鬆弛, 與皺紋. 吃進去消化過的糖份, 會永久性黏在膠原蛋白上

吃進去的東西, 也關係到皮膚的美麗. 有三種對你皮膚不利的食物成份(更不要說對身體健康). 酒精是超級剝水的東西, 會把你皮膚重要養份剝奪, 還可能導致皮膚問題, 像酒槽鼻. 

 

糖份食物吃下去後, 會在體內迅速轉成糖, 對皮膚同樣有害, 它們會讓你的胰島素瞬間攀高, 透過糖化機轉, 導致體內發炎, 發炎會產生一種酵素, 打斷膠原蛋白與彈力蛋白, 造成皮膚鬆弛, 與皺紋. 吃進去消化過的糖份, 會透過糖化機轉, 永久性黏在膠原蛋白上, 加速皮膚的老化

而反式脂肪, 則是加工食物在處理過程, 將液態油變成固態油; 只有一個字能形容反式脂肪, 就是邪惡. 一點好處也沒有, 還會導致很多危險. 反式脂肪最常見於油炸食物, 與商業化糕點, 常吃反式脂肪會增加你的壞膽固醇(LDL), 降低你的好膽固醇(HDL), 增加油脂分泌, 容易堵塞毛孔, 而產生面皰. 飲食中盡量減少反式脂肪的攝取, 別忘了吃好油, 比方Omega3, Omega6, 保養品中選用也含這類好油成份使用到你的臉上

 

10. Using the wrong SKIN CARE products for your skin type

People get quite confused about their skin type and subsequently don’t know which products they should be using on their skin. I posted a guide to knowing your skin type and choosing the right products here. While the typical categories of oily, dry, and combination skin are good basics, they don't address the wide variety of other problems or nuances that can affect skin type. Your skin type can change depending on the weather, your stress levels or hormonal fluctuations. It’s not unusual to have more than one skin type: sensitive and dry, oily and blemish-prone, sun damaged with acne. If you choose the wrong products for your current skin type, you’re asking for problemos amigos.

用錯保養品??

人們常不知他們的皮膚類型是什麼? 因此也不知該選用那些保養品. 一般是分油性, 乾性與混合性, 是大致分法, 無法完全述說所有人各式各樣的膚質. 而且你本身的膚質, 也可能因為氣候, 壓力, 荷爾蒙狀況而有變化. 所以一個人身上可能兼具兩種膚質: 比方: 敏感乾性, 油性易長痘痘, 曬傷面皰, 等等. 如果你選錯保養品, 可能會造成皮膚困擾